The beaches at Tayrona National Park cannot be reached by road. Lane, Erik, Mick our new Ausi friend and I are dropped at the entrance. The path leads into the jungle. It is midday and the air is thick with humidity. I am sweating before we even set off. We have barely walked a minute when we spot a poisonous frog amid the foliage. It jumps away scared by our movement. We continue on down the path in single file. The sound of scurrying creatures echoes out from every tree root cranny. Each footfall meets a bed of squishy browning leaves. Leaf cutter aunts carve not just paths but hand-wide highways across the forest floor. We hike up, down, around and through the overwhelming density of life.
I find myself jumping from sandbag to sandbag in order to cross a river. We climb over giant grey rocks, their presence not allowing the growth of as much sky blocking plant life. Our first view of the beach stretches out before us. Soft yellow sand as far as the eye can see. The wind picks up and we comment to each other on the ferocity of the waves. Curling masses of water crash down against the beach. Signs warn that this first beach is dangerous. We must continue on. The sun strikes our skin leaving behind pinkening pigment. At least the wind evaporates a bit of sweat. We have passed the beach and find ourselves back in the jungle. This time it is not for long. We emerge again to find a tiny sandy bay with clusters of more rounded grey streaked boulders. I remember reading that the indigenous tribe that used to live in this area worshiped these rocks.
Back into the jungle. Two hours of hiking and we emerge to find a fully-fledged camp site. Tents spread out in every direction. A long house contains rows and rows of hammocks, where we will sleep. There is even a restaurant, a small convenient store and in true South American style a footbol field. This strange place will be our home for the next three days.
After ditching our stuff we head straight to the beach. The water is cool and refreshing against our skin. Sunlight streams through layers of water and reflects off small flecks of gold (actually mica) that float and swirl in the waves. Pelicans fly in V formation, their bodies skim the water’s surface. I wish I could stay here in this moment forever.
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